Lead photo: Slocan River. Photo: Province of BC
By Marney Carmichael
Mountains, lakes and old-growth forests make up the West Kootenays, a scenic and outdoorsy area of the Kootenays region in southeastern BC. Bordering Washington, Idaho and the edge of Montana, it’s nestled between the Okanagan and the East Kootenays, with the Purcell Mountain range as a divider. The Selkirk and Monashee mountains are also in the West Kootenays and the ski town of Revelstoke in the Columbia-Shuswap region and the Trans-Canada Highway are to its north.
There are no major urban centres here. Rather, you’ll find unique alpine culture and artistic and eclectic communities. Major highways that run through the West Kootenays are Hwy 3 in the south (zigzags east-west through Creston, Castlegar and Grand Forks), highways 3A (north and east of Hwy 3) and 3B, which links the towns of Rossland and Trail. Highways 6, 23 and 31 run north-south in the central-northern area of the West Kootenays, with Hwy 23 hugging the east side of the long and thin Upper Arrow Lake.
Situated where the Columbia and Kootenay rivers meet, Castlegar is the crossroads of the West Kootenays and a great spot for trout and kokanee fishing. There are countless hiking and biking trails to try in spring, summer and fall when you can experience mountain meadows in bloom and autumnal changes. Nearby parks include Millennium Park, with its swimming ponds and dog park, and Zuckerberg Island Heritage Park, located in the middle of the Columbia River and accessible by a pedestrian bridge. Castlegar has local markets and hosts various events throughout the year, including music festivals and cultural celebrations. A camping option is Castlegar RV Park and Campground.
Thirty minutes southwest is the picturesque ski town of Rossland and Red Mountain, a prime spot for winter adventures and summer exploring. Rossland Lions is the community campground and Nancy Greene Provincial Park (southwest of Castlegar and north of Rossland) has a refreshing sub-alpine lake and is great for an overnight stay or day visit.
East of Rossland is Trail (check out Trail Creek Falls, Centennial Trail and the sandy beach at Gyro Park) and Beaver Creek Provincial Park along the Columbia River. The 18-hole Birchbank Golf Club boasts mountain and river views and a long golf season, averaging over 210 days annually, and Trail Museum and Archives has three galleries and free admission.
Northeast of Castlegar is Nelson, amidst the Selkirk Mountains, and Kokanee Creek Provincial Park with its four campgrounds, boat launch area and beautiful sandy beaches. Nelson City Campground is walkable to the town’s sights, numerous heritage buildings and amenities. While in Nelson chill out at Rotary Lakeside Park or hike to Pulpit Rock across Kootenay Lake, where stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking are popular. The multi-use Great Northern Rail Trail (49 km) near the town is part of the TransCanada Trail system. An amazing fact about this area is that it’s home to the last remaining inland temperate rainforest on earth, with old-growth western white pine, Douglas-fir, lodgepole pine, western red cedar, western hemlock, subalpine fir and Engelmann spruce.
Communities close to and along Kootenay Lake include Creston to the south, known for its agriculture and wineries, and Kaslo at the more northern (west side) end of the lake. This village is often called the “Little Switzerland of Canada”. While in Kaslo check out the SS Moyie Sternwheeler National Historic Site, the vessel worked on Kootenay Lake from 1889 until 1957 and is the oldest of its kind in the world. North of Creston is Kootenay Lake Provincial Park (Davis Creek and Lost Ledge campgrounds) and, near Kaslo, is Goat Range Provincial Park, which protects the natural spawning site of the Gerrard rainbow trout, the largest of its kind. Ainsworth Hot Springs on the west shore of Kootenay Lake is a must-visit and just 15-minutes between Balfour or Kaslo on Hwy 31. Close by is Cody Caves Provincial Park where you can book a tour of its magnificent caves system.
Granby Provincial Park (southwest of the locality of Needles/Hwy 6) is one of the least-explored wilderness areas in southern BC. Close to the Washington border on Christina Lake is Gladstone Provincial Park, which has lakeside camping and recreational activities.
Upper Arrow and Lower Arrow Lakes are a widening of the Columbia River and lie between the imposing Selkirk Mountains on the east and the Monashee Mountains on the west. Valhalla Provincial Park, in the Selkirk range, was created to protect the diverse topography, alpine lakes and unique vegetation of the area.
A neat experience in the northern part of the West Kootenays is the vehicular/passenger ferry across the top end of Upper Arrow Lake, which connects Galena to Shelter Bay, on the west side. (There is also a similar ferry that connects Balfour to Kootenay Bay across Kootenay Lake.) When near Galena it’s worth a trip down Hwy 23 and inland to Halfway Hot Springs. There are over 20 campsites here, and about half of them are vehicle accessible though large RVs are not recommended. Forty-five minutes south is the community owned Nakusp Hot Springs, with its two spring-fed pools. Temperatures are regulated for winter and summer, with one pool kept warmer than the other. Hot Springs Campground is also located here. For more information on the area read the articles on campgrounds around Nakusp and Arrow Lake.
Golf courses in the West Kootenays include Redstone Resort in Rossland, Birchbank in Genelle, Champions Lake in Fruitvale, Castlegar Golf Club, the Salmo District Golf Club, Valley View in Winlaw and Granite Point in Nelson. Northeast of here on Kootenay Lake are Balfour Golf Course and Kokanee Springs in Crawford Bay, and the par-9 Riondel Golf Club on the east side of the lake.
This article is in conjunction with the Camping and RVing British Columbia Coalition. Read their suggested drive in the West Kootenays. The Kootenays are on the traditional territories of the Ktunaxa peoples.
Before travelling to British Columbia read the article Know Before You Go. It has links to driving conditions and environmental updates and park/recreational resources to help you plan a fun and informed trip.
